VISITORS seem to know more about Fortnum than locals. But slowly, politely you might say, the grand old dame of food brands has been edging its way into the 21st century. It is now one of the more interesting food venues in town, something it always aspired to be with its royal warrants, fabled history and open spaces and magnificent home spread leisurely over four floors. There is even a cocktail bar now. Plus an ice cream parlour, plus a bagel station.
In the basement there is a meat counter to go with the wines and relishes galore. The ground floor is all tea and coffee but also has an unsurpassed selection of marzipan in shapes like red mushrooms, and super realistic apples and pears. There are elegant Wedgewood and Spode plates and cups upstairs and above that a laid back studio for events, book shop etc. Mail order and personal shopping have their own spacious counter.
Back in 1700, Hugh Mason rented out rooms above his shop in St James’s Market. One of his tenants was William Fortnum, a footman at Buckingham Palace. Queen Anne demanded new candles each evening. Fortnum sold the old, half finished candles to Mason. And that is how they got started selling provisions to travellers coming to and from central London. Among their first creations was the Scotch egg, a handy snack for the coach traveller around 1738. Four for £17.95 now.
Canning was ideal for Victorian grocery mail order. Famously they bought the first consignment of baked beans from Henry John Heinz. The expeditions department specialized in getting British foods to the farthest corners of empire. Queen Victoria sent tins of beef broth to Florence Nightingale in the Crimean war. The 1922 Everest Expedition was sent 60 tins of quail stuffed with foie gras and four dozen bottles of champagne. Edward VII commissioned the store to find the best tea of all, and it is still sold as Royal brand, a blend of Indian Assam and Sri Lankan Flowery Pekoe.
The shop as it stands today was only rebuilt in 1926. The iconic clock outside depicting Mr Fortnum and Mr Mason who pop out of their boxes each hour, is relatively modern. It weighs a hefty four tons, thanks to bells cast in Whitechapel, and was commissioned by the then new owner Canadian Garfield Weston food and brand entrepreneur in 1964. It strikes on the hour, a very Regency touch of the hat back to old London. Jermyn Street behind was the source of foods for the palace and visiting courtiers and dignitaries.
It is still owned by the Weston family and run by Garfield’s granddaughters. Weston himself made his fortune amalgamating small producers, especially millers, older readers might remember the Fine Fare supermarket chain, so they are appropriate custodians and are making the whole experience fun again.
There are bees on the roof for honey, also a herb garden, they have a still to make their own gin and you can have a message printed up for a bottle as a bit of fun.
The famous picnic hamper – £500 basket included – has lemon curd, Piccadilly chocolate biscuit, fruit cake etc – more than 20 items all told – and even a teapot. The Congratulations Hamper is a more modest £165. Gift boxes start at £30. There are red coats on hand to guide you through shopping dilemmas.
The brand has expanded discreetly with smaller outlets in Heathrow, St Pancras and now Hong Kong, keeping the travellers ethic but the
181 Piccadilly; Westminster, London, W1; United Kingdom
