There is no big sign, no neon, maybe there will be a trestle table outside with some crates of apples or quinces or some obscure Italian lettuce, seasonal anyway, half unpacked. It opens late – 12 – and closes early – four. Most of the trade is invisible. Ring in for orders. Old school.
Leila McAlister’s small grocery by Arnold Circus has been a grocer’s shop since it was Raymond’s 100 years ago, Leila herself took over at the turn of this century. It has culinary gravitas and specialisms. Among the books you might find Sandor Katz on Fermentation. You have to know, to know. Like the shop the web site is old fashioned – there is a spreadsheet of products from which to shop with crossings out for what is not available or out of season.
The shop is an Aladdin’s cave of coveted foodie essentials, stocked from 3am trips to Nine Elms or Spitalfields on a Monday; the sourdough arrives Wednesday, the vegetables and fruits fill up a main table. There is not much spare shelf space. Paprika, tick, butter, tick, smoked mackerel, tick, cheese, tick (Comte, of course) – all strictly curated choices. Anything left over at the end of the week goes to the food bank. The caffe next door is known for its eggs, and its chorizo, piquillo and rocket sandwiches which Leila first introduced to Brindisa’s stall at Borough market. There is a charming portrait of Leila herself on the gentlewoman.co.uk.
TripAdviser has some rough and tumble reviews, but that is because it is not that kind of must-see tourist place in which TripAdviser specializes. It is for shopping. The store is too dark, too cluttered, really too full of good things for Instagram.
15-17 Calvert Ave, Bethnal Green, London E2 7JP
